In Spain and Latin America, the (; )In other languages of Spain: Catalan: (). (). (). is part of a regulatory geographical indication system used primarily for foodstuffs such as cheeses, condiments, honey, and meats, among others. In wines, it parallels the hierarchical systems of France (1935) and Italy (1963), although Rioja (1925) and Jerez (1933) preceded the full system. In foods, it performs a similar role, regulation of quality and geographical origin of products from Spain. There are five other designated categories solely for wine and a further three specifically covering food and condiments, all recognised by the European Union (EU). In Catalonia, two further categories – labelled A and Q – cover traditional Catalan artisan food products, but were not recognised by the EU In recent decades, the concept of the has been adopted by other countries, primarily in Latin America. In 2016, the use of the (DO) for wines was registered as a European Union Protected Designations of Origin/ (PDO/DOP), but the traditional Portuguese term of DO can still be used legally on labels.
Definition
The Spanish Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food regulates the quality of Spanish foodstuffs via a labelling system which establishes, among other things, a for the country's highest-quality produce. There is a semi-autonomous governing body (Consejo Regulador) for each region and for each food type, comprising skilled, impartial members who investigate the quality, ingredients and production process of each product, ensuring they attain specific quality levels. They report to a central council at national government level, but are normally based in the largest population centre of a given region and are responsible for ensuring labelling reflects geographical region. Products labelled , apart from being of superior quality, are expected to carry specific characteristics of geographical region or individual producer and be derived from raw materials originating within the region. Like most of these designations, a fundamental tenet of a DO label is that no product outside of that region is permitted to bear the name.
History
Food and wine are inseparable from Spanish culture, historically bound to the social, economic, literary and even mystical fabric of society over thousands of years, so it is perhaps not surprising that attempts to regulate and normalise activities related to them have proven highly elusive. It was not until the seventeenth century, when legislative authorities became sufficiently interested in issues such as public health, public order and economic regulation, that laws began to be formulated with regard to wine, initially prohibiting, later encouraging and ultimately regulating its production, commercialisation and consumption. Food regulation waited even longer, until Spain's entry into the EU and signing up to the Common Agricultural Policy during the latter part of the twentieth century.
A series of Royal Decrees on wine were issued during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, focussing on ad hoc issues which arose due to new tendencies at home and abroad and often dealing more with maverick suppliers than any concern with comprehensive regulation. Gradually though, concern shifted from issues related to supply towards the need to regulate quality, especially for foreign markets. During the 1920s serious attempts were made to formulate some kind of classification along the lines of the French appellation system. Following the establishment of the Rioja as the first Spanish denominación in 1925, the Estatuto de vino ('wine statute') of 1932 coincided with national and international recognition of the sherry-producing region of Jerez.
Despite being thorough and wide-ranging, the Estatuto was quickly overwhelmed by technological advances in agriculture. By the time the EEC became influential in this area. it was clear that the law would require fundamental re-drafting. A new Estatuto, the Ley del Vino y de los Alcoholes (25/1970) came into place in December 1970 but was again undermined, this time by two important events: the new Spanish Constitution (inaugurated in 1978) that restated geographical considerations with the Estado de las Autonomías, and Spain's pending membership of the European Community (1986) that brought about a rapid classification of all Spanish produce in line with other member states.
Finally, in March 1996, the Spanish government unveiled its own multi-tier sub-classifications, consistent with EU regulation but more pertinent to Spanish agriculture. Hence, for example, the EU's Quality Wines Produced in Specified Regions (QWPSR) covers all Spanish wines graded above the basic vino de mesa ('table wine'). The Spanish forms a subset of the QWPSR.Denominaciones de origen e indicaciones geográficas – Alimentación – M.A.P.A This has coincided with a rise in the perceived quality of Spanish produce generally and has been widely acclaimed, although some areas, like the super-strict denominación de pago, remain controversial and liable to future amendment.
Product types Denominaciones de origen status can be applied to a wide range of foods and condiments, specifically:
Olive oil Rice Bread, cakes and pastries Cheese and butter Fresh meat Prepared meats and sausages Cured ham Fish, molluscs and crustaceans Vegetables Fruit Honey Condiments and spices Cider Wine Distilled alcoholic drinks
Quality foods may be designated a range of classifications, of which is the recognition of superior quality, with identifiable characteristics and specific ingredients, derived from an identifiable and verifiable source. Other classifications, not necessarily mutually exclusive, are as follows, under the general heading of ('foods of distinguished quality'): (DOP, literally 'protected denomination of origin') – an EU designation of protected geographical status, referring to food products specific to a particular region or town and conveying a particular quality or characteristic of the designated area. Indicación geográfica protegida''' (IGP, 'protected geographical indicator') – similar to DOP, but relating to a wider and less specific geographical region.Especialidades tradicionales Garantizadas (ETG, 'traditional specialty guaranteed') – products made using traditional ingredients, recipes or methods.Artisan food product stamp A – recognising small, family-run food businesses with high quality, distinctive produce overseen by a qualified artisan (Catalonia only, not recognised by the EU).Whole Foods Market (2007). "".Food quality stamp Q – foods with superior quality composition, production methods or presentation (Catalonia only, not recognised by the EU).Producción agricultura ecológica (PAE, 'organic agricultural production' – an organic food designation recognising natural, environmentally friendly production methods.
By 2004, Spain had 250 denominaciones de origen and indicaciones geográficas protegidas, over half of which related to food. The following list of better-known denominaciónes de origen is by no means exhaustive:
Olive oil The denominaciones de origen for olive oil include: Aceite Monterrubio – from Badajoz in Extremadura, mostly Cornezuelo and Picual varieties. Baena – Hojiblanca, Picual and Lechín varieties from the south-east of the province of Cordoba. Les Garrigues – Arbequina and Verdiell varieties from the province of Lleida in Catalonia. Priego de Córdoba – Picado, Hojiblanca and Picual varieties from the province of Córdoba. Sierra Magina – Picual variety from the southern part of Jaén province. Sierra Segura – mostly Picual from the north-east of Jaén province. Siurana – Arbequina, Royal, and Murrot varieties from the province of Tarragona.
Iberian ham (jamón ibérico)
The famous jamón ibérico has several denominaciones de origen, including:
Huelva – source of the jamón de Jabugo. Teruel Guijuelo – well known for jamón y paleta ibéricos de bellota (from acorn-fed pigs) Dehesa de Extremadura Los Pedroches Cheese Tetilla unusually shaped cheese from Galicia. Cabrales – Asturian blue cheese. Picon Bejes-Tresviso – from Liébana region in the province of Cantabria. Liebana – from Cantabria, renowned for smoked cheeses. Cantabria – "fresh" Cantabrian cheese. Idiazábal – Basque cheese; the DO labels includes the cheese output of Alava, Biscay, Gipuzkoa, and Navarre. Roncal – from Navarre. Zamorano – from Zamora Manchego – from La Mancha. La Serena – sheep-milk cheese from Badajoz. Torta del Casar – sheep-milk cheese from Cáceres. Afuega'l pitu – cow-milk cheese from Asturias.
Vinegar There are just four protected appellations for vinegar in the EU, of which three are in Spain:
Vinagre de Jerez – sherry vinegar from Jerez Condado de Huelva – white wine vinegar from Huelva Montilla-MorilesWine
Wine region classification in Spain takes a quite complex hierarchical form in which the is a mainstream grading, equivalent to the French AOC and the Italian DOC.